Printable Version | Send to Friend
Subscribe | Add to Favorites
Author: Subject: Strategies

Mood:  Bemused
posted on 2-27-2005 at 12:11 AM Edit Post Reply With Quote


The holding of the cards?
This is completely arbitrary as many people have their own ways for holding cards.
Personally, I find the best way is to order them in a way that allows you to quickly decide which card to throw.
I hold my jesters to the far left of my hand and my wizards to the far right. In between, I first order my individual suits from lowest to highest. Then, I'll alternate the suits, as in red, black, red, black. This allows me to easily distinguish between the suits.
How about you?
Submitted by Mr. Wizard

Got a good Wizard face?
As in poker, people's expressions or reactions to dealt cards, turned trumps, or even thrown cards can give away alot of information in Wizard.
If your lucky enough to play vis-a-vis often with people, play close to attention to their reaction to cards and you'll probably be able to pick up a few "tells." Use these to your advantage later in the game.
Of course, bad poker/wizard faces can't hurt you online...
Submitted by Mr. Wizard

If unsure it is better to underbid than to overbid. Its easier to get rid of a winner than to manufacture an extra trick. The most common error of beginning players is overbidding.
Submitted by wizard

The 3 stages of a Wizard player
Regarding bids...
In the early games, soon after being taught this magnificent game, players tend to be very liberal with their bids. They tend to think all trumps and any card above a 9 is a winner. As a result, they bid high and don't make.
After a few more games (or a few more hands, depending on how quickly they understand), they learn their lesson of overbidding and begin to be extremely conservative with their bids. They believe all of their cards are losers and that they can almost always bid 0 and get it. As a result, they bid low and don't make.
Finally, the players have finally fully developed. They now know that their Wizard isn't always a winner, their ace can be trumped by a 2, and that their 5 of non-trump can be a winner. Their scars have healed and now they understand that anything can win and anything can lose. They are well rounded and their various high and low bids come into place. Beware of these players.
Now of course there are other factors that come into play (simply not card players, don't have the ability to remember most of the thrown cards, only focus on making one's bids, aren't competitive, etc.), but these were the major differences I have come to notice.
Submitted by Mr. Wizard

Seven BiddingConsiderations
At least 7 factors must be considered when deciding on a bid:
1. Strength of hand
2. Distribution of hand
3. Number of cards dealt
4. Number of players
5. Order of bid
6. Score and stage of the game
7. Pattern of bidding

1. Strength of Hand:
Hands containing high cards obviously call for higher bids than hands lacking such strength. The possession of Wizards adds not only strength but flexibility as well. The Wizards value is greatly enhanced by the fact that it can be played at any time. This means that it can be used to avoid winning or losing a trick. Jesters, like Wizards can be played to avoid taking an unwanted trick or to protect a card that is needed to win a later trick.
2. Distribution of Cards
The length of each suit held determines the shape of the hand. A long suit adds flexibility because high cards are usually protected by lower ones. Conversely cards in short suits are often forced out at the most inopportune moment. Mid-range cards such as 8-9-10 can be a real problem in a short suit.
3. Number of Cards Dealt
Other things being equal, the more cards in the hand the higher the bid. In a 4-handed game a player will likely bid higher if dealt 10 cards than if only dealt 3 cards.
4. Number of
Other things being equal the more players, the lower the bid. If each player receives 9 cards, bids will be lower with six players than with three players.
5. Order of Bid
Previous bids must be considered. High bids indicate the possession of Wizards and trump and consequently your bidding must be tempered by this information. Similarly, low bids may require an upward evaluation of your hand.
What about when you are last to bid?
With an awkward hand and bidding last it is wise to call it even. An awkward hand is one which lacks flexibility. With a leading score and bidding last, it is advantageous to make a bid that will enable all players to be successful so that the score will not change dramatically. Conversely when losing more aggressive bidding is often necessary and even calls should be avoided. The gamble is that the leader will break and the standings will change. This is particularly true in the late stages of a game when the potential for scoring many points is high
6. Score and Stage of the Game
Your ranking on the score pad and how many hands remain to be played are factors which impact on the bid. If trailing and time is running out, it may be necessary to bid more aggressively.
7. The Pattern of Bidding
One should always consider the pattern of bidding established by the other players. For example if a particular player tends to overbid consistently this information must be taken into account before bidding.

Whats Your bid?
You are first to call. Spades are trump. There are 4 players.
You hold: 2, 6, spades. A,J,6,3 hearts. 4 clubs. 3,9 diamonds. What is your bid?
Ans. Bid One. Not knowing what the other players are going to bid a bid of one is advised. You hope to win with your Ace or by trumping in after you dump your Club.

Now whats your bid?
You are last to call. Spades are trump. There are 3 players. Each of the other 2 players have bid one.
You hold: 7S, QH, 6C
What do you bid?
Ans. Bid Zero.
A heart lead could sink you but maybe not.
A club, spade or diamond lead should put you in pretty good shape.
Submitted by wizard

To set or not to set the leader...That is the question
In most cases, your first priority should be to take down the leader. If your primary goal is to win the game, you do not want one person to get too far ahead of the field. Rather, keep him/her as close as possible by attempting to help others make their bids while setting the leader...until you're within reach. This is especially true if he/she is bidding very high and you are not. Both going down -10 is alot better than the leader making his/her 7 bid and you making your 1 bid.
However, in tournament play, for example, simply making the top 3 or 4 is sufficient for moving on. In this case, it is not necessary to win, just to finish with a lot of points. Purposely setting yourself to bring down the leader can be deleterious to oneself as it allows others to move up on you. Additionally, continually setting the lower-scored players can keep you ahead of them.
Submitted by Mr. Wizard

Don't Go Down Alone
If it becomes quite apparent that you are not going to make your bid, feel free to take as many or dodge as many tricks as possible if it can set other players.
Going down -40 points and also bringing down the leader -10 points (lose 30 on leader) is a lot better than going down -10 points and the leader making his 3 bid (lose 60 on leader).
Submitted by Mr. Wizard

Offensive "Even Bids"
Usually an "even bid" is made to avoid being set when holding an awkward hand.
Occasionally, a situation arises when an even bid can be made in order to make a significant gain on the scoreboard. The beauty of the "even bid" is that when one person is 'set' so is a second. Holding a hand with Wizards and/or Jesters and few "uncertain cards" you may wish to make an "even bid" with the intention of 'setting' others.
Submitted by wizard

"I NEVER bid even when last to bid" ????
I've heard several good players make this statement and frankly I don't understand the rationale. Here are 2 examples of situations in which I do bid to make it 'even'.
(a) An infexible hand. Holding a hand without Jesters or Wizards and a lot of mid-range cards which may or may not win a trick I am likely to be set.
Consequently I bid even and am happy if I can escape the hand without losing any points.
(b) If making an even bid gives me a major point gain I bid even. (Depending on the score and the stage of the game.)
For example in a 3-handed game with the first 2 players bidding 1 when 10 tricks are available I am happy to bid 8 so that we all make our bids. My point gain is significant. (Of course good opponents will set themselves in order to stop such a ploy.)
* Another reason to make an even bid is to maintain the status quo when enjoying a significant lead. That is the reason for the "Canadian Rule".
* If you are a really good player and have the right cards it is good strategy to bid to make it even but with the intention of making your own bid and setting others.
Submitted by wizard

Alternate Bidding Systems
Q. What's the secret to playing your cards when using the "delayed reveal" bidding system?
A. What makes this system so challenging is not knowing what other players have bid. However you can surmise what their bids might be by paying close attention to the cards they play. Are they "ducking" tricks or trying to set-up or win tricks? Also watch what cards other players lead and note when they show that they are out of a particular suit. This information can be very helpful to you. The play of Wizards & Jesters can also provide clues. An early play of a Jester indicates a reluctance to play that suit...why? The early play of a Wizard may be to avoid a suit or to set up another card in that suit. And of course, being familiar with your opponents' style of play helps too.
Submitted by wizard

Skill Sampler: Posers. What do you do?
Situation: Last hand of a 3-handed game with score virtually tied. Its your lead. You hold 2 cards, a Wizard and a 5H. You know: 5H is good, Jesters are gone, 1 Wizard remains in play in addition to your own, person on your left wants no further tricks, you need 1 more trick and the 3rd person wants 2 more tricks. Which card do you lead and why?
Lead the Wizard? If player 2 holds the other Wizard he dumps it on yours and you take both tricks. If player 3 holds the Wizard he knows he cant win 2 tricks so he dumps his Wizard and takes you down in flames with him.
Lead the 5H? I led the 5H hoping that the 3rd player had the Wizard and would take it with his Wizard and lead back his last card to my Wizard. This works only if the 3rd player has not kept track of the Wizards left in play. In this case he knew there was still a Wizard out and he couldnt take both tricks so he took neither setting us both. By the way if player 2 had held the Wizard he would have dumped it on my last card (The Wizard) with the same result.
Submitted by wizard

Another Poser. Too many winners??
With spades as trump you hold:
Wiz, Ace S., King H., 3C., 4D
You need one more trick, not 2.
A wizard is led. What do you do?
(a) Throw off your wizard?
Now a Spade lead and a Heart lead and you are apt to win 2 tricks.
(b) Throw off your Ace of trump?
Now if a spade is led you can dump your King H. If a Heart is led you can win with the Wizard and lead clubs or diamonds. Only another heart lead would force you to win 2 tricks.
Submitted by wizard

Playing Wizards and Jesters
1. Generally it is not a good idea to lead a Wizard as it allows other players to set up their hands by discarding unwanted cards.
2. Wizardry over Trumps
If more tricks have been called for than there are tricks available the Wizard should be used to win rounds i
n which the trump suit is led. This removes winning tricks from the opponents hands and increases your chances of winning additional tricks.
When fighting for tricks don't play a Wizard simply to win a trick. It should also remove cards from opponents' hands with which they had hoped to win tricks.
3. Wizard on Wizard??
If fewer tricks have been called for than there are tricks available it is not always a good play to unload a Wizard on a Wizard that has been led. It may be better to unload a high trump instead. By keeping the Wizard you maintain flexibility.
e.g. Holding Wiz, Ace spades, King hearts, 3 clubs, 4 diamonds. Spades are trump and a Wizard is led. You need only 1 trick. Its better to dump the Ace of spades than the Wizard. You are in better shape for the next lead.
4. Lose to Win
Both W & J can be used to good advantage in situations in which you have already broken. Good players are prepared to take an additional loss of 10 or 20 points if in so doing they can prevent opponents from making their contract and scoring high points.
5. Jesters are best. Surely you jest?
Most experienced players agree that Jesters are more useful than Wizards. Jesters are rarely a problem whereas sometimes you may find it difficult or impossible to unload an unwanted Wizard. Jesters hold both offensive and defensive potential because they allow you to protect a card that you dont want to play. For example you may not wish to play a singleton King on an Ace lead or you may not want to discard a Trump card that you need. The Jester allows you greater flexibility in playing your hand. Having said this does not diminish the great value of the powerful Wizard card.
6. Wizards & Underbid Hands
Although it is not always possible, it is best to win a trick with your Wizard when you are the last person to play. (When the hand has been underbid) Otherwise you may allow other players to dump high cards, trump or even other Wizards on your Wizard. I have often seen a cornucopia of winning tricks fluffed off when a Wizard is played early in the round. This mistake may well result in your winning an extra trick with a minor card.
Submitted by wizard

General Strategies
1. Note the cards led. Theyoften provide clues as to the nature of the hand from which the lead comes. This is particularly true in "no trump" hands.
2. Note when Jesters are played. They often indicate a suit that the person playing the Jester wants to avoid.
3. Make your move to steal a trick when you are one of the last to play or with players not wanting more tricks playing after you.
4. A flexible hand is one that contains Wizards, Jesters and/or a long suit containing both high and low cards. Generally you should try to squeeze as many tricks as possible out of a flexible hand and at the same time make sure someone else fails to make his bid.
5. When the number of tricks called for are even and it appears that everyone will make his/her bid, look for ways of making your own bid while forcing others to go over or under their bid. Do not be satisfied simply with making your own bid unless you have a difficult hand to play.
6. Be prepared to go down additional tricks once you have failed to make your bid. Dont worry about losing another 10 or 20 points if you can stop other players from making their contract.
7. Be prepared to intentionally not make your bid if it is to your advantage on the scorepad. For example if your main rival has bid 6 tricks and you have bid 0 you will record 20 points and he will record 80 if you both succeed. Its better to break yourself if you can break him too. Then you both lose 10 points.
8. Pay special attention to the person leading on the scorepad. Watch for opportunities to disrupt his/her plans. For example if there is a trick that he/she clearly wants to take, that may be your best time to play your Wizard and steal the trick.
9. Some of the strategies mentioned above can be summed up by saying that you should play defensively as we
ll as offensively. To do this effectively you must keep an eye on the scorepad. You must know the individual scores, exactly how many tricks each player wants, and by how much the contract has been over-under-bid or whether the bids are even.
Submitted by wizard

No Trump Hands
The last hand is always "No Trump". Inasmuch as all 60 cards are dealt out it is essential that the play of the W.& J be monitored. If these cards can be controlled there is an opportunity to develop a suit and possibly win enough tricks to steal a game victory.
If your hand is unbalanced with length in one suit, it is likely that other hands are also imbalanced. Consequently it is vital that you retain an entry card that will give you the lead. This means that generally speaking you should take your losers first and try to establish control in the late stages of the hand.
Submitted by wizard

No Trump / Jester Turned Up
No trump hands that result from a Jester being turned up differ from the final hand because all 60 cards are not in play.
Basically there are 2 strategies which can be utilized. The dealer can name his longest and strongest suit and try to get as many points as possible or he can name his shortest and weakest suit. The advantage of the latter is that it is easier to make the bid and it often confuses the opponents who do not know which strategy you are using as they must bid before you. It is your hope that they may overbid and go down in flames.
Submitted by wizard

1. As a general rule it is best to lead low in order to avoid taking unexpected tricks. However there are lots of exceptions to this rule.
2. Last is Best
It is usually not advantageous to have the lead. The ideal position is to play last. A lead of trump is good if it is done with a purpose in mind. A small trump may be led to force out other trumps. A high trump may be led to win a trick or to force out Wizards or higher trumps.
3. Lead depends on Overbid or Underbid
The particular lead depends on whether the player is attempting to set up a trick or trying to unload a card. This in turn is often determined by whether the number of tricks called for by the table is over or under the number of tricks available.
4. Preserve W & J (usually)
Its best to keep your options open and your opponents guessing so Wizards and Jesters should generally not be led. It is usually better to save W&J for crisis situations which often arise during the end game. Of course there are situations where the lead of a J or W is the best play.
5. Get Answers Early
Often a hand will contain cards of dubious value that may or may not win a trick. It is usually wise to find out early in a round whether such cards will win or lose so that adjustments can be made if necessary. For example holding a singleton Jack of Spades, it may be prudent to lead the jack early in the game rather than be surprised later when it wins a trick. If the Jack lead does win it is usually possible to fluff-off one of your expected winners.
Submitted by wizard

Tips for the 'Confused'
Here are 2 guidelines for new players who aren't too sure of how to bid and/or play their cards. These suggestions aren't carved in stone but if you follow them you are likely to improve your game if it currently 'stinks'.
1. Bid zero unless you have a Wizard or are void in 1 suit and have good trump cards.
2. When last to bid never make an underbid unless you have at least 1 Jester.
3. When a hand is underbid try to lose every trick regardless of how many tricks you may have bid.
Submitted by wizard

Wizards & Underbids
Although it is not always possible, it is best to win a trick with your Wizard when you are the last person to play. (When the hand has been underbid) Otherwise you may allow other players to dump high cards, trump or even other Wizards on your Wizard. I have often seen a cornucopia of winning tricks fluffed off when a Wizard is played early in the round. This mistake may well result in your winning an extra trick with a minor card.
Clarification: I am talking here about a situation where you want to win a trick with your Wizard. The point is you should try to win the trick without helping others to improve their situation.
Submitted by wizard

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U wizard This User Has MSN Messenger   wizard 's ICQ status

Powered by XMB 1.8 Partagium Final Edition 131002m
Forum Developed By Aventure Media & The XMB Group 2002
Processed in 0.0412960 seconds, 24 queries
2003, 2004, 2005 Wizard Cards - All Rights Reserved
Software Development and Web Design by
  Lawson Software Development - Adventurous Network Web Design
Contact Us: |